Cell-communicating ingredient

Cellular-communicative ingredients are substances that help the skin to "read" and more accurately carry out its own biological signals. They not only soften the surface, but also affect the processes of cell renewal, differentiation and repair, which is why they are especially appreciated in the care of age-related, problematic and photo-damaged skin. Most often, such components work through cellular receptors or signaling pathways, due to which they can maintain a more even skin texture, reduce the severity of wrinkles, normalize the renewal of the epidermis and improve barrier properties. For hair and product texture, this function is usually not the main one: its key role is precisely related to the biological effect on the skin. (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)

Typical examples are retinoids, including retinol and its derivatives. They bind to nuclear retinoic acid receptors and alter the expression of genes related to the growth and maturation of skin cells; studies have shown that retinoids affect the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, as well as processes associated with wrinkles, acne, and photo-damage. Another common example is niacinamide: it is classified as an ingredient with a signaling effect because it participates in the regulation of cellular mediators, supports the skin barrier, affects sebum production and helps improve the appearance of dull, uneven or sensitive skin. (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)

In cosmetics, such substances are usually used not for the sake of an instant decorative effect, but for the gradual improvement of skin condition with regular use. The result depends on the form of the ingredient, its concentration, the formula of the product and its tolerability: for example, retinoids are known to be highly effective, but can cause irritation to sensitive skin, whereas niacinamide is usually milder tolerated. That is why products with this function are often included in serums and care creams aimed at renewing, strengthening the skin barrier and preventing signs of aging. (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)