indecoder.RU
Хорошо изучен
антиоксидант кондиционирование кожи

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Form of Vitamin C, MAP

Характеристики

INCI
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Рус.
Form of Vitamin C, MAP
IUPAC
Ascorbic Acid, Monoester With Phosphoric Acid, Magnesium Salt (2:3)
Функции
антиоксидант, кондиционирование кожи

Для кого подходит

Тип кожи
▲ Сухая ▲ Жирная ▲ Комбинированная ▲ Нормальная ▲ Чувствительная ▲ Склонная к акне
Проблемы лица
▲ Антивозрастной уход ▲ Осветление ▲ Антиоксидант
Зона применения
▲ Лицо
аскорбиломонофосфат, магниевая соль

Описание

A form of skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know, what the big deal about Vitamin C is, click here and read all about it, we will wait here for you. 

So now you know that pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is really unstable and hard to formulate so the cosmetics industry is coming up with a bunch of derivatives to solve the problem and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (or MAP) is one of them.  

MAP does solve the stability problem: it's stable up to pH 7, so far so good. What is not so good is that, as the great review study about vitamin C derivatives in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes, MAP is "at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison to AA." 

Moreover,  derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin, they also have to be converted into pure AA. The good news is that in-vitro data shows that MAP does convert, but the bad news is we do not really know if the same is true on real, living human skin. Even if it does, we don't know how good the conversion rate is (but to be fair the same is true for all other derivatives).

Regarding the three magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener), there is no published data about MAP's antioxidant or photoprotection capabilities. We have better news about the other two things: in-vitro data shows that MAP can boost collagen synthesis similar to AA (though in the case of AA it's proven in-vivo) and even better, MAP is proven to work as a skin brightenerin-vivo(on real people). 

Bottom line: when it comes to vitamin C derivatives, MAP is definitely an option. We especially recommend it if you are after skin brightening as this seems to be the strongest point of MAP. 

 

Доказательная база и научные исследования

Научные публикации и источники 1
  • 1
    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Встречается в продуктах (1 752 всего)

Волосы
Уход за лицом
Уход за телом
Декоративная косметика

Наиболее часто встречается в продукции Andalou Naturals (54 продуктов)

Синонимы
Ascorbyl Phosphate Mg Ascorbyl Phosphate Mg ( Vitamin C ) Ascorbyl Phosphate Mg (Vitamin C Derivative) Form of Vitamin C L-Ascorbyl Magnesium Phosphate L-Ascorbyl Magnesium Phosphate (Vitamin C) (1.0%) Magnesium Ascorbic Phosphate Magnesium Ascorbic Phosphate (Vitamin C) Magnesium Ascorbyl (Vitamin C Derivative) Phosphate Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate⁠ Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (0.1 Ppm) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (1,000 Ppm) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (10%) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (10Ppb) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (10Ppm)