Characteristics
- INCI
- Undeceth-5
- CAS
-
34398-01-1
This is the substance number in the Chemical Abstracts Service registry. The CAS number uniquely identifies a substance regardless of language, trade name, or synonyms.
- Functions
- Emulsifying, Surfactant
Description
Undeceth-5 is a synthetic compound belonging to the alkyl ethoxylate family, where a fatty alcohol chain (undecyl alcohol, derived from 11-carbon fatty acids) is reacted with an average of 5 moles of ethylene oxide. This ethoxylation process creates a molecule with both water-loving (hydrophilic) and oil-loving (lipophilic) properties, making it an effective surfactant and emulsifier. While undecyl alcohol can originate from natural sources like coconut or palm kernel oil, the final ingredient is chemically modified in a laboratory to achieve consistent performance. The "5" in its name indicates the average number of ethylene oxide units, which dictates its balance between water and oil solubility.
In cosmetic formulations, Undeceth-5 works by reducing the surface tension between water and oil phases, allowing them to mix into stable emulsions like creams and lotions. As a non-ionic surfactant, it doesn't carry an electrical charge, which makes it compatible with a wide range of other ingredients, including charged (ionic) compounds that might otherwise destabilize a formula. Its primary function is as an emulsifying agent, helping to disperse oils into water and prevent separation over time. Additionally, it can act as a mild cleansing surfactant, though it's rarely the primary cleanser in rinse-off products—formulators typically use it at concentrations between 1% and 5% to support texture and stability without overwhelming the formula.
The main benefits of Undeceth-5 revolve around its ability to create smooth, elegant textures in skincare and makeup products. It helps produce lightweight emulsions that feel silky on the skin without greasiness, improving the overall sensory experience of creams, serums, and sunscreens. By stabilizing oil-water mixtures, it ensures that active ingredients are evenly distributed and delivered to the skin, enhancing product efficacy. While it's not a highly active ingredient with dramatic skin benefits on its own, its role in formulation is critical—without effective emulsifiers like Undeceth-5, many multi-phase products would separate and become unusable. The evidence for its safety and functionality is well-established in cosmetic chemistry, though it's considered a supporting player rather than a star performer.
Undeceth-5 is generally suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, due to its mild, non-ionic nature. However, like many ethoxylated compounds, it can be associated with trace levels of 1,4-dioxane, a potential contaminant from the manufacturing process. Reputable brands typically purify their ingredients to remove this impurity, and regulatory bodies like the EU and FDA have set strict limits to ensure safety at low levels. It is compatible with most other common ingredients, including oils, silicones, and preservatives, but may be less effective in very high pH or low pH systems. For those concerned about sustainability, note that the undecyl alcohol can be derived from palm oil, so look for brands that source certified sustainable palm derivatives if that aligns with your values.
When scanning ingredient labels, Undeceth-5 will appear near the middle or end of the list in most products, as it's used in relatively low concentrations. It's commonly found in moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and cleansing lotions where stable emulsions are required. An interesting fact: the ethoxylation process that creates Undeceth-5 is the same technique used to produce many other emulsifiers and surfactants, and the number in the name (5, 10, 20, etc.) directly affects whether the ingredient is more oil-soluble or water-soluble—for example, Undeceth-5 is more oil-friendly than Undeceth-20. While it's not a household name, this hardworking emulsifier plays a quiet but essential role in ensuring your favorite lotions and creams remain perfectly mixed, scoop after scoop.
Products with Undeceth-5 (151 total)
Most often found in Revuele products (12 items)