Refatting

Refatting ingredients help compensate for the loss of lipids that can occur during skin and hair cleansing. Surfactants remove not only impurities and excess sebum, but also some of the corneal layer's own lipids, which can cause dryness, tightness, and a feeling of roughness. The addition of fat-replenishing components makes cleansers softer: they leave a thin softening layer on the surface of the skin and hair, reduce the degreasing effect and help maintain the barrier properties of the skin. In the European CosIng database, the refatting function is described as restoring the lipid layer of the skin after washing, and dermatological reviews confirm that mild cleansing formulas with lipid and emollient additives better preserve the integrity of the skin barrier. (single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu)

In the finished product, such substances affect not only comfort after washing or showering, but also sensory properties: the foam may feel creamier, and the texture may feel more "caring." In shampoos and shower gels, they reduce over-drying, make hair and skin smoother to the touch, and in products for sensitive or dry skin they help reduce irritation from frequent cleansing. They are especially useful in formulas where it is important to combine cleansing and softening, as studies show that fatty acids and oils introduced into cleansing products can partially replenish lipids lost in contact with surfactants. (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)

Typical examples of such components are Glyceryl Oleate and Coco-Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate, which are often used in mild shampoos, foams and shower gels as conditioning and lipid-replenishing additives. Individual fatty acids, such as stearic acid, can also be used in this role if the formula is designed for more delicate cleansing and reducing the feeling of dryness after rinsing. (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)