Depilatory

Ingredients with depilatory function help to quickly remove the visible part of the hair from the skin surface. They usually work by breaking down protein bonds in keratin, the main building material of the hair. After such exposure, the hair softens, loses its strength and is easily removed from the skin with a spatula or washed off with water. Therefore, in formulas for depilation, not only the active substance is important, but also the alkaline medium: it helps the composition to penetrate into the hair and enhances its effect. That is why such products are more often produced in the form of creams, pastes or thick emulsions, which are convenient to distribute and hold on the desired area. (health.ec.europa.eu)

The most typical examples of such components are calcium—Calcium Thioglycolate and Potassium Thioglycolate. Thioglycolic acid and its salts are among the most well-known depilating agents; according to the European Commission, depilators in the finished product can contain concentrations of up to 5% in terms of thioglycolic acid, at a certain pH range and when used according to the instructions. These substances primarily affect the hair, not its root, so the effect is temporary: the skin becomes smooth, but hair growth does not stop. Due to their high reactivity, such formulations can irritate the skin and mucous membranes, so manufacturers accompany them with warnings about avoiding eye contact, using gloves and strictly observing the exposure time. (eur-lex.europa.eu)

For consumers, this means that such ingredients are appreciated for their quick and painless method of hair removal compared to pulling out, but they need to be applied carefully. The safety of such substances is assessed by relevant expert organizations, including SCCS and Cosmetic Ingredient Review, which separately consider the conditions of use and possible irritant effects. Therefore, in cosmetics, this function is always associated not only with effectiveness, but also with the exact dosage, pH of the product and clear instructions for use. (health.ec.europa.eu)